The Bride

The womens most awaited event.. The answered prayer.. Once in a lifetime the promise of love til death do us part, for better or worse.

A good images and photographs that will last forever and to reminice every time.. In the event like this digital photography ensure the endless memories of life. The photographers prepare his gadget and all lenses are ready for a very special occasion.

Wedding photography is the art of life that makes every bride happy and rejoice for the wonderful moment of her life.It is a vocation for the sacred moment of matrimony. Photographers ensure every moment of this event make sense....

Photos taken at Sharjah UAE use for Wedding Photographers workshop and developed their skill in clicking the shutter and looking thru their lenses.

Light Painting

Digital Photography is an art with the use of light. This images was done using the Light Painting technique only pen light was th available light source and made it very creative. This concept is very interesting since no other equipment used aside from pen light. Using SLR camera and setting the Aperture and shutter speed properly to take same images like this.

Sharjah Gold Souk

Sharjah Gold souk one of the Historical and Old structure in UAE an excellent architectural that to the present is still the tourist attraction of Sharjah. Night shot practice of Night Photography using Canon SLR 1000D and tripod.

Digital photography and photographers are more interested in Historical place which passion, try to shoot and post there art adding impression with the History.
Night photography required tripod since it is set in the lower aperture and slow shutter speed as much as possible try to use cable release to avoid any shake and blurry image.

insects: The bee and the dragonfly

Insect and close up shot are more interesting in Digital Photography, it also a challenging shot specially when capturing a best photos.

The following shot was taken in the La Union Philippines using Canon 1000D SLR camera.





while bee playing around with the flower and working hard to do his duty its very interesting to captured the image. Best images happen every time so always ready to captured those moment.




Dragonfly taking rest and make a pose in this photo. Using 55-200mm telephoto lens and setting the camera to the right aperture and shutter speed to get this image. But this will be better if macro lens was use.


Digital Photography can develop by practice and by passion.

Exposure: ISO

WHAT IS ISO?

ISO is the sensitivity to light and it is important to learn how it works in Digital Photography.

The ISO setting on your camera is something that has carried over from film. Remember back in the ‘old days’ when you used to go and buy your rolls of film and you would buy film rated at 100, 200 or 400, maybe even 800 or 1600? Well that number refers to the film’s sensitivity to light. The higher the number, the more sensitive to light the film is. The ISO bit is from the standards for film sensitivity, and the number refers to it’s rating.

So what does sensitivity mean? Well a low sensitivity means that the film has to be exposed to light for a longer period of time than a film with a high sensitivity in order to properly expose the image. With a lower sensitivity you also get a better quality image too which is why you should always try and use the lowest sensitivity you can get away with. Let’s not get ahead of ourselves though, a little more explanation is required.

You might remember buying film for a sunny holiday and the shop assistant would recommend using a film rated at 100 or 200. If, on the other hand, you were going to be taking pictures indoors, then you might be recommended a higher sensitivity like 400 or maybe 800. If you used ISO100 film and decided to take some pictures indoors, chances are you would need to use the flash, or your pictures would come out quite dark. This is because the film’s sensitivity is so low that the shutter would need to be open for a long time to let enough light in. Your camera may not have had the features to allow it to keep the shutter open for long enough, which is why you ended up with dark pictures.

This was one of the problems with film. Once you’d loaded it into your camera, you were pretty much stuck with that film sensitivity for 24 or 36 shots.

Bring on digital cameras and you can now change the ISO setting for each shot you take. That is one of the big advantages of digital photography.

So why do you only get choices like 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 and maybe 3200 when it’s digital, surely you could set 154 or 958 if you wanted it? It’s only electrical currents and circuits after all, not a piece of film. Well, in theory you could choose any setting you wanted, but imagine how tricky that would be. There are three settings which combine to give you the exposure, these are Aperture, Shutter speed and ISO. Each one can be changed individually to allow you to set then to what you think will give you the perfect exposure, or you can let the camera set them for you to what it thinks is the perfect exposure for the conditions it can detect. Already with three different options, each having several settings themselves, the combinations are numerous, so keeping ISO to set values, which people will understand makes it a little less confusing.

Now, I mentioned quality too, and that better quality images are achieved with a lower ISO number. If, again, you go back to film days you may remember the sort of grainy effect some images had. Well this grain effect is what is introduced with a higher sensitivity film. Digital has it’s own grain effect with higher sensitivity and is known as Noise. Digital noise can be seen a sort of speckley effect in areas of similar colour, like skies or dark shadow areas. It is a subject of much discussion and the camera is often judged on the amount of noise it produces at these higher sensitivities. This is why you should always try and keep your ISO set to the lowest number, and use aperture and shutter speed to get the right exposure. If you can’t do that with aperture or shutter speed, move up to the next ISO setting and try again.

Why is a high ISO setting needed? Well for indoor work, where flash isn’t allowed and the light levels are fairly low. Or you can use it deliberately to get the grainy gritty feel to the image (although I would prefer to add this later on the computer).

It’s well worth experimenting with ISO settings so you can see just how your camera performs at the various levels. Once you have got to grips with how changing Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO effect your image, you’ve pretty much got all the technical fundamentals nailed.

Over at the Digital Photography School Blog there is a nice post on how to choose the right ISO setting which is worth checking out.

Exposure: ShutterSpeed

In Digital Photography the shutter speed is one of the most important elements to consider to have a impressive shot, but let us understand fully how the shutter speed works.

What is shutter speed ?
The aperture diaphragm of a lens (bigger or smaller values) and timing (open and close) of the camera's shutter curtain - both perform the tasks of regulating the amount of light entering the camera and expose onto the film. The shutter speed scales engraved on the shutter speed dial of conventional camera bodies with a shutter speed ring OR via some flickering digital numerals on the LCD screen like: 1/8000, 1/4000, 1/1000, 1/500, 1/250, 1/125, 1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1 or -1, -2 etc. are essentially indicators of the duration (timing) at which the shutter curtain opens up and closes during an exposure process. A 1/125 setting means the shutter curtain open and close within one hundred and twenty five of a second while 1 means an one full-second the shutter opens up during exposure to absorb the available light source onto the film to form an exposure.

What does shutter speeds do ?

In principle, shutter speeds, like aperture value detailed on earlier section, contributing as the next half of the main components for any exposure process - the interval at which the shutter opens to allow a specific amount of light (also depends on the opening of the lens diaphragm) to pass through and expose the film inside..

Different selection of shutter speeds will yield different kind of visual effect on a final photograph. Generally, a fast shutter speed can freeze action while slow speed can blur your image. I am not indicating these are fixed rules. If you understand the nature of how various shutter speed(s) will affect an exposure, you may put them to creative use to enhance the effect - like other than freezing a fast action scene, a slow shutter speed can also put to good use in portraying movement. You can try on to "PAN" a moving subject by following its direction or simply generates a sense flow of movement. But MOST people relates SLOW means BLURRING AN IMAGE which leave little for them to select this alternative to try them out. Well, it is excusable because in most PR-type of photography (photo session on public relation matters like wedding, gathering, seminars, or personal domestic duties for some privileged group - includes your wife, mistress or girl friends..), who would appreciate a defocus or blurry images ? BUT - for the creative minded photographer, slower shutter speed sometimes may create a more powerful visual impact than images taken with action-freeze high shutter speed(s), say, a free flowing river, traffic, a flock of birds taking off or even speed-demons on a race track.. etc..

A basic mechanical SLR camera body like the Nikon F2S of the mid-seventies only offers manual exposure control. AE may require accessory such as DS-1 to transform it into an shutter priority AE camera.

A camera operating in manual mode or a mechanical camera requires you to set the shutter speed and aperture value on the lens manually. In an automatic camera, there is usually at least one type of automatic exposure mode is available. Because of complication of mechanism involves, most camera manufacturers offer only Aperture Priority AE or Programmed AE modes on their EARLY electronic camera models. A good example is Minolta and Canon with their MD and FD mount cameras and lenses while in some exceptional case, such automation was made possible using a mechanical device such as Nikon's F2 with their EE Aperture Control Unit. However, by early '80 with development and refinement made on both cameras and lenses (Most would require a new series of optics), majority of them started to offer "Shutter Priority AE" and "Intelligent Programmed AE" as well.